With M.I.A‘s “Bad Girls” pulsing through the speakers, Max Osterweis and Erin Beatty showed their Fall 2012 collection for Suno. It’s the brand’s fifth season showing at New York Fashion Week, and it’s amazing to think that in four short years, Suno has been able to establish itself as a major force in the fashion industry. But in spite of the design team’s immense success over the years (they participated in the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, a program known for catapulting little known designers out of relative obscurity, into the forefront of the industry), there was still room for growth, and this season, the brand showed that they’re developing their range.
The show started out with a host of muted tones– something we’re not quite used to seeing from the brand and– stripes. It read boarding school chic, while recalling city girl style sensibilities: classic pieces with an unexpected twist. Graphic knits, boxy silhouettes, and innovative details added edge to tried and true aesthetics. For example, a single grey mixed print jacket with a charming grey glen plaid pattern had additional arm holes so you could wear it like a cape.
Fall weather doesn’t usually conjure up images of blooming flowers in our minds, but the design duo offered a range of muted florals this season. Peachy roses bloomed against grey and jailbird stripes. While most of the prints lacked the vivid, clashing hues we’re used to seeing from Suno, the designers gave us a few bright pops of orange, lemon yellow, and violet in a printed rosebud blouse and jumpsuit.
The show ended with a dash of whimsy, serving up separates decorated with a starry sprinkling of colorful abstract florets, and gold pailettes adorning sheer blouses and skirts with modest hemlines. All the looks were anchored by a lustworthy pair of floral booties, a collaboration with british shoe designer Nicholas Kirkwood.
Personally, I love Suno, so I will be on board with almost anything they offer– they satiate my appetite for mixed prints and clashing colors. This season was a bit more demure, but it had a funky sophistication that I think will appeal to those who might be a little bit afraid of print.
What do you think?
photos: Vogue